AN1 V2 Dim/Bright (Resolved)

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KiwiBuilder
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:21 pm
Location: Auckland

AN1 V2 Dim/Bright (Resolved)

Post by KiwiBuilder »

Hi I've just completed wiring up my Standard AN1. All good ther:-)
I'm now looking at Dim/Bright install. I don't have enough AN1 left if I stuff this up so need help on how to wire up Dim/Bright ones....I've seen a couple diagrams that people have produced but still can't get my head around how to wire them up :roll:
Can some provide a photo or something of AN1 Dim/Bight wired up?

I would be very great full :wink:
KiwiBuilder NZ
Chris Durney

bluskydriver
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:01 pm

Bright/Dim State

Post by bluskydriver »

Hi Chris,

How about this; try to image a light bulb that has two light switches. The first switch when turned on makes the bulb shine bright, let's say 100 watts for explaining this, so you turn that switch off and turn the other light switch on and assume it also makes the bulb shine bright at 100 watts.

Now, let's take that same number two switch and put a resistor in between the switch and bulb to make the bulb shine dimmer at 60 watts. So, we turn switch two off. Thus, we have one switch for 100 watts and another switch for 60 watts. How about we call the 100 watts Blue Bright and the 60 watts Blue Dim?

Okay, we try to test our switches for Blue Bright and Blue Dim, but if I turn on the power to Blue Bright, it will go through to the bulb and back out to switch two because there is nothing stopping the electricity from going that way. So, we must have a way for the electricity to only go to the bulb and no further, and we need to do that for both switches. Thus, we add in two diodes (think like a one-way street sign where traffic can only go one way).

Therefore, we now have switch one with a diode and switch two with resistor and a diode. Or, we have the Blue Bright State with a diode and Blue Dim State with a resistor and diode. If you're still with me here; you now have the two states setup. We just have to do one last thing.

The wire or power that goes to switch one before it goes to the diode and bulb, let's say that this is a wire coming from an output card like the SYS cards, so when the card sends the signal (which is acting like the switch) to the Blue Bright State, it turns the bulb on or we can call the one bulb itself, the Blue LED Annunciator. Now, for switch two we use a different output wire and it acts like switch two, which goes to the Blue Dim State (resistor and diode) or the same one bulb/Blue Led Annunicator. Thus, only one Blue Led Annunciator is used and it can light up in a Blue Bright State or Blue Dim State, but not both at the same time (okay, in theory it could, but you will not setup the Sys Cards to turn both on at the same time, so only think one on at a time).

Finally, there are only 7 (I believe) Blue Led Annuncaitors in the Forward Overhead (for B737), so that means those seven will require 14 outputs from the Sys Cards (2 outputs per Annuncaitor), and they will also require two diodes and one resistor each. Thus, in total you need 14 diodes and 7 resistors.

Wihtout confusing you, there are two types of Annuncaitors that FDS made, in the past, there was nothing different about the little printed circuit boards (PCB) you got. You just solder the leds and the wire connector ends onto them and that was it. However, when it came to the Blue Bright/Blue Dim States, us builders had to make up little cards or whatever to hold all the Diodes and Resistors. Now, Peter and Steve, who are up on all this, decided to help us all out by making the little PCB boards where we could attach the diodes and/or resitors to them, which in turn made it so much easier for everyone. So, these are the newer PCB boards, which are the one's that FDS sells today (the old PCB boards are no longer sold).

You might ask this question, so I will answer it for you. What size resistor do you use or how much? Well, that is up to you, but it can be 330Ohms or higher or lower. The higher the value, the dimmer the Led will get in the Dim State. So, you might only want a small difference or you might want a huge difference. For example, if you're a majority night time flyer in your sim, you don't want Blue Dim State Annunicator blinding you, so you might make them a little more dimmer. In other words, the choice is up to you on the dim level.

If you have any other questions, you can always email Peter or Steve, they will even call you or you could call them, if it needs to be. I have spoke with them several times over the years, and they're the best two guys in the world at explaining things...

Best Regards,

BSD

KiwiBuilder
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:21 pm
Location: Auckland

Re: Bright/Dim State

Post by KiwiBuilder »

bluskydriver wrote:Hi Chris,

How about this; try to image a light bulb that has two light switches. The first switch when turned on makes the bulb shine bright, let's say 100 watts for explaining this, so you turn that switch off and turn the other light switch on and assume it also makes the bulb shine bright at 100 watts.

Now, let's take that same number two switch and put a resistor in between the switch and bulb to make the bulb shine dimmer at 60 watts. So, we turn switch two off. Thus, we have one switch for 100 watts and another switch for 60 watts. How about we call the 100 watts Blue Bright and the 60 watts Blue Dim?

Okay, we try to test our switches for Blue Bright and Blue Dim, but if I turn on the power to Blue Bright, it will go through to the bulb and back out to switch two because there is nothing stopping the electricity from going that way. So, we must have a way for the electricity to only go to the bulb and no further, and we need to do that for both switches. Thus, we add in two diodes (think like a one-way street sign where traffic can only go one way).

Therefore, we now have switch one with a diode and switch two with resistor and a diode. Or, we have the Blue Bright State with a diode and Blue Dim State with a resistor and diode. If you're still with me here; you now have the two states setup. We just have to do one last thing.

The wire or power that goes to switch one before it goes to the diode and bulb, let's say that this is a wire coming from an output card like the SYS cards, so when the card sends the signal (which is acting like the switch) to the Blue Bright State, it turns the bulb on or we can call the one bulb itself, the Blue LED Annunciator. Now, for switch two we use a different output wire and it acts like switch two, which goes to the Blue Dim State (resistor and diode) or the same one bulb/Blue Led Annunicator. Thus, only one Blue Led Annunciator is used and it can light up in a Blue Bright State or Blue Dim State, but not both at the same time (okay, in theory it could, but you will not setup the Sys Cards to turn both on at the same time, so only think one on at a time).

Finally, there are only 7 (I believe) Blue Led Annuncaitors in the Forward Overhead (for B737), so that means those seven will require 14 outputs from the Sys Cards (2 outputs per Annuncaitor), and they will also require two diodes and one resistor each. Thus, in total you need 14 diodes and 7 resistors.

Wihtout confusing you, there are two types of Annuncaitors that FDS made, in the past, there was nothing different about the little printed circuit boards (PCB) you got. You just solder the leds and the wire connector ends onto them and that was it. However, when it came to the Blue Bright/Blue Dim States, us builders had to make up little cards or whatever to hold all the Diodes and Resistors. Now, Peter and Steve, who are up on all this, decided to help us all out by making the little PCB boards where we could attach the diodes and/or resitors to them, which in turn made it so much easier for everyone. So, these are the newer PCB boards, which are the one's that FDS sells today (the old PCB boards are no longer sold).

You might ask this question, so I will answer it for you. What size resistor do you use or how much? Well, that is up to you, but it can be 330Ohms or higher or lower. The higher the value, the dimmer the Led will get in the Dim State. So, you might only want a small difference or you might want a huge difference. For example, if you're a majority night time flyer in your sim, you don't want Blue Dim State Annunicator blinding you, so you might make them a little more dimmer. In other words, the choice is up to you on the dim level.

If you have any other questions, you can always email Peter or Steve, they will even call you or you could call them, if it needs to be. I have spoke with them several times over the years, and they're the best two guys in the world at explaining things...

Best Regards,

BSD


Hi, Thankyou so much for your reply. its a little clearer now...
Now for a really stupid question! The diodes and resitors are already installed on AN1 V2 boards right?
KiwiBuilder NZ
Chris Durney

Jetcos
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Post by Jetcos »

You have to add them. and install the 4 pin connector in the correct spot.

Picture sent to you.
Steve Cos
Vice President and Tech Support
Flightdeck Solutions (FDS)

KiwiBuilder
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:21 pm
Location: Auckland

Post by KiwiBuilder »

Jetcos wrote:You have to add them. and install the 4 pin connector in the correct spot.

Picture sent to you.
Thanks Steve... Email is : cmdurney@gmail.com
KiwiBuilder NZ
Chris Durney

pcos
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Post by pcos »

____________________
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KiwiBuilder
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:21 pm
Location: Auckland

Post by KiwiBuilder »

pcos wrote:A quick search on the forum:
http://www.flightdecksolutions.com/foru ... ual+bright

Thanks Peter , but all ready found all that.

Steve sent me some actual photos of AN1 Dim/Bright all wired up showing all required components etc... Big help! Thanks Steve.

Question regarding wire harnes... It has 3 wires coming out of it , black (common) , white (active) and another black ( for jumping to another AN1)
For dim/bright AN1 we need 4 wires on 'Wire harness?' ( common, 2 active and 1 for jumping to another AN1 )
KiwiBuilder NZ
Chris Durney

pcos
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Post by pcos »

Treat Bright as 1-AN1 and Dim as 1-AN1
That common/third wire is simply to loop.
Peter
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KiwiBuilder
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Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:21 pm
Location: Auckland

Post by KiwiBuilder »

pcos wrote:Treat Bright as 1-AN1 and Dim as 1-AN1
That common/third wire is simply to loop.
Peter
Okay so same as standard ?
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Chris Durney

GDR
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Post by GDR »

Geert.

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